Free tool
Pick what you failed on to see what it means, how to fix it, and how the re-test works.
What did your vehicle fail on?
One or more lights aren't working or aim incorrectly — headlights, brake lights, indicators, reverse or number-plate lights.
Replace blown bulbs and confirm all lights work front and rear. This is a quick, cheap fix and a very common fail.
Re-test: Usually a fast re-check once fixed.
Side or rear windows are tinted darker than the legal limit, or the front windscreen is tinted.
Remove or replace film so tint is within the legal limit (commonly up to 50% on side/rear) and keep the windscreen clear.
Re-test: Re-test after the film is corrected.
Tyres are worn below legal tread, cracked, bulging, or damaged.
Replace any tyre that's worn or damaged. Check the manufacture date too — old tyres can fail even with tread.
Re-test: Re-check once new tyres are fitted.
Braking performance is uneven, weak, or the car pulls to one side.
Have the brakes inspected and serviced — pads, discs or fluid may need attention. Don't drive far in this state.
Re-test: Re-test after a workshop confirms the repair.
A warning light (check-engine, ABS, airbag) is on, which usually means an automatic fail.
Get the fault diagnosed and repaired so the light clears properly — don't just reset it.
Re-test: Re-test once the underlying fault is fixed.
The exhaust produces too much smoke or the emissions reading is out of limits.
Common causes are a worn engine, faulty sensors or a clogged system. A workshop diagnosis is the reliable route.
Re-test: Re-test after the emissions issue is resolved.
Excess play, knocking, or worn components in the steering or suspension.
Replace worn ball joints, bushes or links as advised by a workshop.
Re-test: Re-check after repair.
Visible oil, coolant or other fluid leaking from the vehicle.
Trace and repair the leak — it can also point to a bigger problem worth fixing.
Re-test: Re-test once the leak is sealed.
A crack or chip in the driver's field of view, or damaged mirrors.
Repair small chips or replace the windscreen; refit or replace mirrors.
Re-test: Re-check after the glass is fixed.
Non-standard parts — exhaust, lights, body or engine changes — that aren't approved.
Revert to standard, or get the modification officially approved where that's possible.
Re-test: Re-test after the car is compliant.
Corrosion, accident damage or sharp edges affecting safety or the chassis.
Have the damage repaired properly; structural issues need a qualified workshop.
Re-test: Re-test after certified repair.
The car passed the check but registration is blocked by unpaid fines.
Clear all traffic fines, then complete the renewal.
Re-test: No re-test needed — just settle the fines.
Failing the inspection is common and usually fixable. The centre hands you a report of exactly what to correct. Sort those items, return within the allowed window for a re-check, and you can renew as normal. For the bigger picture, read car passing in the UAE and the full inspection guide.
There is usually a set window (often around 30 days) to fix the listed items and return for a re-check. Confirm the exact period with your centre.
Re-tests within the allowed window are often free or reduced. If the window passes, you may pay the full inspection fee again.
Simple items like bulbs, tyres or tint are often DIY. Brakes, emissions, suspension and warning lights are safer to have a workshop diagnose and repair.